Serarching for Lenses for Portrait (n+1 thread)
March 17th, 2010but I need for portraits and I want something good. :mrgreen: The problem as always: budget, what is maximum 600 . :grumpy:
I own now D70s and the 18-70 lens. The 70mm seems to be very often a bit short when trying to capture my son on the beach or playground. Can not really shoot a "candid" photo. I have to come as close as 1,5-2m and that's a problem, too. I'm not really planning to shoot animals, birds, insects (macro) etc.
Some of my shoots with current lens:
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i167/cumi76/Forum_And_Temp/Tmp_2007_06_12/DSC_2246.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i167/cumi76/Forum_And_Temp/Tmp_2007_06_12/DSC_2257.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i167/cumi76/Forum_And_Temp/Tmp_2007_06_12/DSC_2203.jpg
I would be very-very happy to have the Canon 70-200 F4 for Nikon... But there are no analogue lens for Nikon, so I have to search for alternatives. I found following:
Zooms:
Nikon 55-200 VR (300 ) - Minimum focusing distance is only 1,1m and that's cool. VR is also cool. Price also cool. SWM is fast. Currently this is my winner.
Nikon 70-300 VR (500 ) - quality is OK. A bit too long I think. Not sureif I would ever need 300mm. Minimum focusing distance is a bit much: 1,5m. Almost my winner.
Nikon 80-200 F2.8 (900 ) - pro lens, over my budget. I've tested the one-ring (older) version of this. The quality is very good, focusing speed is medium (for my taste). No VR. The max aperture is constantly F2.8, what is perfect for portraits.
Nikon 70-200 F2.8 VR - hahaha!
Sigma 70-300 APO Macro... (200 ) - in macro mode minimum focusing distance is 0,95m, that's very cool. No VR. Not sure about the quality.
Sigma 70-200 F2.8 costs same as the Nikon one, so forget about this.
Primes (no zoom, so that's isn't so cool, but let's take a look):
Nikon 85mm 1.8 (380 ) - a bit longer than the end of my 18-70 and gives a very good quality.
Tamron 90mm F2.8 macro (380 ) - even more longer. Some say, it's the best portait lens. Min focusing distance 0,29 (!!!).
Any other lens maybe? Experiences?
Why not? But at 100mm-150mm surely. If the subject is on 5m away from me, I need at F4 GN=20. With my External flash I have even more (GN42), so I can even at F8 add some fill-flash with my SB600.*
The big question for me is, if I can use fill-flash (iTTL) with an non-D lens. I think no.
The lens comes in both auto and manual focus and you can read about it here... (if you have never had the opportunity to read this guy, he is very opinionated but generally near enough to right -imho- to be worthwhile)
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/70210f4.htm
I know that guy, I read almos every article from him. He's great.
P.S. the f4/5.6 is a really good lens if a bit slow. I have one- the cheaper non-D, and I use it more just knocking around than my f2.8. For $50- $100 it can't be beat!
Actualy, not a bad option. Is there a D version, too? I have to check ebay again...
* Sorry, I love calculations. I know, too much engineering thinking for photography.
Try and find out how much zooming really means to you. Walk around one day with your lens set only at 50mm, or only at 38. And dont touch the zoom ring. I know 2 people who don't even own zoom lenses. Just about 5 fixed ones.
Also it is not really possible to apply mathematics to photography. Yes the DOF calculation is true, but this formula should not be applied. EVER. The choice of focal length an aperture should come from choosing the amount of perspective distortion you want, and the DOF or capturing the light provided. Remember a 70mm photograph from across the room looks different to a 12mm photograph standing right next to the person. The choice is ultimately a creative process not a mathematical one.
- I am by far not a portrait photographer, I just try to shoot nice portaits of my son that will be developed and gived to grandparents...
- hence I don't shoot under controlled circumstances (studio)
- I know the 85mm 1.8 is a good lens, surely, I would like to have it, but I'm afraid, I will often miss the possibility for zooming.
- of course, the 2.8 zooms are my favorites. Just like a Ferrari. But, I can not really afford them. As written before, I tested the older one (80-200 2.8D ED - one ring) from a friend and it was great (but a bit slow in focus). He wants to sell it to me for 500 (a new one cost here in EU 900 ).
- the 50mm as a focal length is covered by my 18-70 and it is not the quality the problem
P.S.: in my tests (and calculation) the DOF is a square-root function of the focal length and a linear funtion of the aperture, so more focal length brings much less DOF than small aperture...
Try and find out how much zooming really means to you. Walk around one day with your lens set only at 50mm, or only at 38. And dont touch the zoom ring. I know 2 people who don't even own zoom lenses. Just about 5 fixed ones.
Also it is not really possible to apply mathematics to photography. Yes the DOF calculation is true, but this formula should not be applied. EVER. The choice of focal length an aperture should come from choosing the amount of perspective distortion you want, and the DOF or capturing the light provided. Remember a 70mm photograph from across the room looks different to a 12mm photograph standing right next to the person. The choice is ultimately a creative process not a mathematical one.
You're damn right (especially red text)! This made me think a lot and now I tend more to 2 primes I mentioned in the first post, plus the 50mm 1.8.
It is also -as you said- the ability to photograph in low-light situation, or at least catch 2 stops more ambient light when using flash. The low-light situation is mostly indoors, mostly in rooms, living rooms. That means, with focal distances above 100mm (nominal), I can take photos of noses, but not portraits... I could get the 50mm 1.8D new one for 120*. I didn't ever read a bad critics about that lens... Actualy, never read a critics, that states something else that it's a fantastic highly recomanded lens...
*Please don't tell me, how much would it cost in USA. I don't want to know. :grumpy:
...Except the 55-200? I am here talking about the ED VR version, not the older 55-200 one. Is the new one also not a winner one?
New one:
http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/nikkor_55200_456vr/index.htm
Old one (no VR):
http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/nikkor_55200_456/index.htm
The lens comes in both auto and manual focus and you can read about it here...
(if you have never had the opportunity to read this guy, he is very opinionated but generally near enough to right -imho- to be worthwhile)
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/70210f4.htm
HTH
mike
P.S. the f4/5.6 is a really good lens if a bit slow. I have one- the cheaper non-D, and I use it more just knocking around than my f2.8. For $50- $100 it can't be beat!
The big question for me is, if I can use fill-flash (iTTL) with an non-D lens. I think no.
I know that guy, I read almos every article from him. He's great.
Actualy, not a bad option. Is there a D version, too? I have to check ebay again...
* Sorry, I love calculations. I know, too much engineering thinking for photography.
1: The 70-210 f4 was discontinued before Nikon started making D lenses I believe.
2: With the crop factor 100mm equals 150mm and at that focal range and beyond using a flash is tough to do for a number of reasons. Off the top of my head, here are two. First is that you can only get tight head shots unless you move way back which makes you flash work harder and may go beyond it's usable range. Second the further back you move the wider your DoF gets around your focal point which means that the background will be more in focus unless you get even further away from that, which renders your flash even more useless because you will have a shot looking like it was taken in outer space.
3: Yes you can still use fill flash. Just dial down the flash exposure on the flash itself to suit.
4: Yes there is a 70-210 f4-5.6 D, they are well thought of and tend to be a bit pricey. The only difference is that the D focuses faster in auto. An annoyance that I can put up with for an extra $300 US. ;)
HTH
mike
http://cgi.ebay.com/Nikon-AF-Nikkor-70-210mm-f4-Zoom-Lens-MINTY-NoReserv_W0QQitemZ230145741480QQihZ013QQcategoryZ3 343QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
mike
Yeah yeah, I saw it on european ebay too, but I was not sure if it was an auto or manual focus lans. And, what I found were not constant F4-s, but F4-5.6 ones, like this:
http://cgi.ebay.at/Nikon-AF-Nikkor-70-210-mm-Testsieger-Top-Garantiekarte_W0QQitemZ220124133774QQihZ012QQcateg oryZ80389QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or these:
http://foto.search.ebay.at/70-210_Nikon_W0QQ_trksidZm37QQcatrefZC12QQfromZR40QQs acatZ80385QQsatitleZ70Q2d210
OK, I found one:
http://cgi.ebay.at/Nikon-AF-Nikkor-1-4-70-210-mm-Raritaet_W0QQitemZ290132903323QQihZ019QQcategoryZ8 0389QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
But, I thing it's not an "D" version, so it could be a problem when using with iTTL flash (SB600). Is there any D version?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Nikon-AF-Nikkor-70-210mm-f4-Zoom-Lens-MINTY-NoReserv_W0QQitemZ230145741480QQihZ013QQcategoryZ3 343QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
mike
Also you can eliminate any lens that isn't at least f/2.8. FOr modelling you want the ability to go with the largest aperture to allow you to eliminate dof.
I'd vote for a fixed focus at f/2 or f/1.8. The length is up to you, but remember this isn't a sporting fixture. You have the ability to zoom just by getting closer. While fixed focals can be a pain for nature photography and urban photography, portraits is one area where they are needed IMO.
Personally if it's for portraits then I would almost certainly choose the 85mm f/1.8.
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